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The Formulary · plain reading for buyers of skincare← The bottle
The Formulary · a plain reading of what is in the bottleSheet 09 / 09
[ Formulary No. 09 ]

Tea Tree

Melaleuca alternifolia · essential oil · 0.4% within the 2.0% blend

Not subtle. Used properly, a virtue.

§ 1 · What it is

Steam-distilled from the leaves of Melaleuca alternifolia. Tea tree is the loudest thing in the botanical cupboard: sharp, green, unmistakably itself.

The contribution here is the dose. At 0.4% the shout becomes a word, spoken once, early, and then gone.

Chromolithograph botanical plate of Melaleuca from Köhler's Medizinal-Pflanzen
Melaleuca · Köhler's Medizinal-Pflanzen, 1887 · public domain.

§ 2 · What the number means

0.4%: the “properly” in “used properly”. Tea tree is the ingredient people most often over-pour, usually to feel something happening. Feeling something happening is not the assignment.

The last line of the label, and the first scent to leave the skin. INCI order is weight order; exit order is its own list.

§ 3 · What it does

Scent

Clean, sharp, faintly medicinal - the top note that opens the blend and is first to go.

Proportion

0.4%: the loudest ingredient, kept the quietest.

Register

The formula's one sharp voice, outnumbered eight to one by design.

Everything in §3 is sensory or compositional. None of it is a medical claim: none may be made, and none is needed.

§ 4 · What it does not do

Does not treat acne.

Does not disinfect your face.

Does not replace a pharmacist.

Is not a spot treatment in a nicer bottle.

A sharp tool, held lightly. The dose is the discipline.

§ 5 · Where it comes from

Melaleuca alternifolia is Australian; the oil has been distilled from its leaves commercially for about a century.

[ Region and distiller pending certificates of analysis. ]

§ 6 · Words on other bottles

One entry per sheet. The convention is the target; no brand is named, and none needs to be.

Active ingredient

A regulatory category for medicines, borrowed by cosmetics for the swagger. It also quietly insults the rest of the formula, as though eight of the nine lines were decoration. “Active” is a costume; a dose is a fact.